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Entry Door Selection

You can avoid the top 10 most common pitfalls

When considering entry door selection it is easy to be wooed by a beautiful piece of decorative glass or on the other end of the spectrum a super low price tag. But before you run out and plunk down that hard earned dollar, take into consideration the following Top 10 tips to avoid heartache or worse headaches from your new entry door selection.

I can tell you that each person will rate these differently depending on how big a problem they would create but every item on this list will turn into a problem if not addressed. I am going to assume you are shopping for a complete door, meaning a door hung in a new frame.


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• You must know the measurements, not just the height and width of the existing door but the often forgotten measurement of how thick is the door frame. The standard frame you will find in most building centers is either 4-9/16” or 6-9/16” for a standard 2x4 or 2x6 wall. But what if your old wall is something different? Anyone can order you a door with a frame to match your wall, it will cost slightly more but if not do you have the skills to rebuild or extend the stock frame?

• What color is your hardware? Are you willing to settle for the stock brass hinges that come standard on most doors or will you confirm your hardware color and order your door with matching hinges to avoid the cost and labor of changing those stock hinges? In the process of entry door selection it is important to think through all aspects of the door system.

• Which way does your door swing? I don’t just mean when you are pulling the handle towards you is the handle on the left or right? I mean does your door swing into the house or towards the outside. This concern will affect the frame and sill setup and if you try to reverse the wrong type you are inviting a leak for sure.

• Are you aware that most manufacturers are offering their products with maintenance free metal or vinyl cladding over the frame of the door. In the process of entry door selection you don’t have to settle for a wood frame that needs periodic painting and while I’m on this subject make sure your new door has frame saver technology so it will not rot.

• If you are considering a beautiful new stainable fiberglass door do you realize the special gel stain and finishing process required if you stain it yourself? Check to see the cost of having your new door professionally stained; it could be money well spent when investing so much and expecting a realistic look when finished.

• Do you also realize that the beautiful new stained fiberglass door you purchase will need to be resealed per manufacturer’s recommendation on average every one to two years? Who will handle that chore?

• Did you know that most steel doors sold today only have a primer coating on the surface? If you leave that unpainted for more than 90 days you void the door warranty. Once again most door providers offer a professional finish process in a wide variety of colors with a finish comparable to auto finish.

• If you want the security of a deadbolt did you know you could have all the holes for it predrilled in your new door and frame for under $10?

• When it comes to installing the door remember two things. Most new doors come with a package of long screws in a bag attached to the frame. Be sure and install these screws one in each hinge after the door has been properly plumbed and leveled to assure a solid anchor to the framed wall.

• Lastly, make sure and properly seal your new doors exterior by installing a sill dam with caulking below the door and sealing the top and sides with a sealing system like Tyvek Straightflash. If you short cut this part of the process you are just asking for a leaking door and that usually results in damaged entryway flooring.


I have been out on countless job sites in the last 30 years to examine door complaints of defective product and 9 times out of 10 I find either a modified door not functioning like it was intended or an improperly installed door.




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